Application: The GB Sewing Bee – Filming Autumn 2013

Hi, Just a quick post to show the additional make of this little top previously posted The Great British Sewing Bee make# 2 from the Book , in cream vintage lace, over cream viscose and silk. Neckline and inside armholes are bound with self-made bias binding, as outlined in previous post.

Also, to let you know how to apply to be one of the contestants on the next series filming of the GB Sewing Bee in Autumn 2013. Take the link and apply, I received this directly from Love Productions, the team behind the series, unfortunately as I used to work full-time as a costumier I’m not eligible to apply – bummer . The rules and application are on the website; www.bbc.co.uk/showsandtours/shows/beonashow/great_british_sewing_bee so if you are in the UK or rolling in dosh and can jet in for filming – hark at you!, then give it a go. Who knows you could be the next media darling, elbowing your way into the London nightclubs and sharing a ciggie with Kate Moss or Mossy as she’s known to her pals.Good Luck!!

May 21

Quick easy make bias binding – Tutorial

How often do you make bias binding? The self-made edging for necklines, armholes, finishing inside seams on sheers etc. Not often I bet. Seems it’s a bit of a monster /palaver to many and any books on how to do it seem to advocate folding squares of fabric stitching together, marking and cutting making miles of the stuff! That has its place, but for ordinary garment sewing then cutting lengths for the treatment needed is the best approach.

For example, I find that all that is needed for most armholes is 15″ in length, so I just cut two bits that length. However depending on the fabric width you have it can be considerably longer e.g neckline. This way is fairly straightforward with the added benefit of not having any joining seams, which invariably end up in the most conspicuous part!

So how to:

Firstly get yourself a standard ruler – this is the perfect width for bias binding, and mark a line approx 45 degrees on the ruler – if perspex then use Tipex (correction fluid). I have an old wooden ruler and the red pen mark is my “line”. Place the ruler on the fabric with the line mark parallel to the edge of the fabric and either mark and cut with scissors or if using a rotary cutter then cut along length, on both sides using the ruler as a guide – extend longer than the standard ruler length to your finished requirements. Extend by reference to the previous markings and always with consideration to the diagonal and parallel to the table/mat edge. This method can be used and each length can be joined, if needed, in the usual fashion.

I finish all my inside armholes this way – French seams can distort the armhole ease and I do not like overlocked/zig zag seams on very lightweight garments so when I’m cutting out my fabric I cut a couple of strips of binding at the same time.

Give it a go

I have demonstrated with a spotty fabric which makes finding the bias easier to see. I also have enough fabric so I cut in a continuous strip for the two armholes.

Firstly square up your fabric – use your table edge or cutting mat and lay fabric edge straight on this

On top of your fabric lay a ruler with your 45 degree mark across with the mark parallel to the edge of the table/mat (mine is a red line)

next up cut along both diagonal edges

you will then have a bias strip and the diagonal left on the fabric can be your guide for the next strip, if needed

fold your fabric from the edge into the middle – (I don’t use those bias gadgets – I find them fiddly and pointless on short lengths)

press along the length – without steam…..

….then fold again for double fold binding Steam and leave to cool – this will pre shrink your binding, taking out any stretch. All manufactured bias binding is pre-shrunk.

ready for attaching to your garment

finished bound armhole

May 18

The Great British Sewing Bee make# 2 from the Book

Yes, the Great British Sewing Bee book is still my current inspirational go to. And, another simple little pattern caught my eye. It is so simple it would have been crazy not to give it a go I liked the little flower collar featured in the book and decided I would use up a bit of some flower fabric I had been keeping for a dress I intend to make at some point. I also had some lovely white silk and cotton fabric left over from a previous make. It’s very sheer so I doubled it up on the front and back leaving it as a single layer on the sleeves to give added interest. There are no darts or closures to have to contend with so a couple of hours is all it takes.

The feature collar is single layer and not too structured so I thought it needed something to lift it, I decided to stitch on some beading . I picked out the darkest blue colour of the fabric and matched the beading and stitched to only those colours. The beads add a bit of texture and weight to the collar. Making the bias binding is about as tricky as it gets, I have a quick trick on how to make your own bias binding which I will share shortly.

I have cut another in cream vintage lace overlayed in cream viscose, only this time without the collar.

May 15

McCalls 6650 – Revisited

Not one to ever let a pattern get the better of me – I have been known to make multiples just to perfect it! I was a little disappointed that in my recent blouse-athon, this pattern went a bit awry, see “The good, the quite nice and the not so pretty” posted earlier. The problem – in hindsight – was the cutting. The hip-band and neck- tie called to be cut on the bias; an incredibly extravagant use of fabric. However as I cut on the straight grain (I didn’t have enough) the stretch and “manipulability” of the fabric was absent, where needed. This resulted in almost rendering the entire garment – of which I cut two in silk!; fit only for the bin. I salvaged by making bias binding and binding the neckline etc, but it was far removed from my original intention.

I am happy to report that I have taken this bad boy on again and although minus the gathered hip (not really me) it’s exactly as I initially envisaged.

This time I used a lightweight cotton and silk – not quite a voile, in a brown spot and cream colour-way. I used the neck-tie on version (B) of the pattern, as on (A) it is massive and I’m afraid only my eyes would peek out of there! I am very pleased with this, it feels great, looks good under jackets without feeling restricted – as sleeveless.

I’ve already started on another, only this time black spot on white – somebody stop me!!

May 10

The Great British Sewing Bee – A make

Yes, I like most of the sewing world was hooked with the television series of the Great British Sewing Bee which aired recently. I did not expect to be taken with any of the “makes” tackled, as I thought there wouldn’t be anything too tricky (I’m always looking to learn from my sewing), or inspiring, as the contestants – being amateur and restricted by time- would have to be given fairly straightforward tasks. I am glad to say I was wrong and a number of the makes “stood out” for me.

Firstly I liked Stuart’s ” lantern” dress – what’s a bit of miss match? pah!

I thought Michelle’s reversible wrap dress was a great idea for holidays – Fabric choice being the main issue.

Ann’s stunning finale lace dress was a masterclass and sooo elegant – for any age.

…but my absolute favourite was Lauren’s little tweed hacking jacket. I love everything about this to the extent that I am trying to track down the beautiful oatmeal tweed and pink fabric for the cuffs she used – which I will make for my daughter.

New look 6035

Needless to say I bought the companion book of the programme and I have to say I was not disappointed. Stuart’s dress and the tweed hacking jacket patterns are there – Yes, Yes, Yes!

There are other great patterns available for upload and a tunic pattern included in the book sleeve- which I intend to make into a shift dress, at some point.

The first pattern I tackled from the book is a lovely very, very easy tea dress. I had some fabric similar to the picture above in my stash for some time, a beautiful spotted viscose, which I love, but until this little pattern came along I could find nothing to make with it.

This dress could be made in an afternoon. The only major deviation from the pattern is that I did not insert a zip, as called for. The reason was that I could not get the neck facing to match exactly to the dress neckline – this may be because I did not stay stitch the neck of the dress, however the upshot (serendipity – I love you) was that at the centre back I fashioned a small inverted pleat, this added some excess to the chest area and meant that although the dress was fitted through the waist I could pull it on and off easily.

I would recommend, if doing this, that you French seam your seams as this strengthens the garment. I added the buttons and French tack belt carriers.

French tacked belt loops.

I am thrilled with this little number, it’s so easy to wear, weighs next to nothing and washes like a ribbon, all I need now is some tea and sunshine! Oh, and to chat to about tailoring!

May 7

Jasmine by Colette- Revisited

I have been promising myself a remake of the Jasmine by Colette for some time now. I first made this last year and loved how, as it’s cut on the bias, it avoids the need for any closure – the inherent stretch meaning it pulls on over the head and yet, hugs the body. I was waiting for the right fabric to come along and I came across this viscose/rayon and loved the colour-way, it has a beautiful hand and feels great next to the skin. The fabric design lent itself to be cut on the bias where the lines of the flowers could be made to form chevrons front back and as luck would have it at the sides! I prefer sleeveless tops generally (swimmers’ shoulders) as I wear a lot of jackets and sleeves can feel constrictive. This fits the bill and I have worn it with, not only suits, but more casually with jeans, a good all round pattern.

May 5

1940′S Basic Block/Sloper Straight Skirt Tutorial

SONY DSC

At last I have managed to do the necessary drafting tutorial regarding the basic skirt that is a staple of mine and most women’s everyday wardrobe. I have featured this skirt many times in posts – usually highlighting a top or blouse, recently made, so it’s about time the skirt took centre stage. My favourite thing about this skirt is that it take around a metre of fabric which can often be picked up as a remnant. I have some beautiful cashmere suiting which to buy off the roll would be very pricy but which I can source very cheaply indeed, the resulting skirts wear well and look great. I have also been known to use furnishing fabrics, yes, you guessed, normally an off cut/remnant. I often like to use non conventional fabrics in dressmaking as it forces you to think a bit differently in its application. An example seen in the previous post The love that is the perfect skirt. The fabric featured with the oversized flower motifs reminded me of many catwalk and high-end high street fashion fabrics. Always consider laundering requirements by testing a swatch of the fabric first. I do not go in for routinely washing fabric prior to making up, judgement requires to be exercised in this regard, many fabrics should only ever be dry cleaned.

First up is the drafting tools. In the picture above I have a set square, French curve, folding metre stick, paper scissors, pencil/pen and rubber/eraser and of course paper. I use brown parcel paper (lightweight one is fine). All my measuring tools are metric and quite old, although I understand similar are readily available.

I shall narrate all the stages and plot each of the significant points (click on photos to enlarge) to show the process. I was taught both the Imperial and Metric system and as a result I use something of a hybrid. The original basic block formula is from the Vintage Sewing Info site which I mention in the earlier post and therefore uses the Imperial measurements. However, a conversion table to Metric should solve this issue should that be your preference.

Please therefore take your own measurements and make a muslin (add seam allowances) of your draft to adjust fit, perfect your block (without seam allowances) and you have the basis for the designing of a range of perfectly fitting skirts.

First up, take your waist measurement – on the neat side and your hip measurement – at the fullest part on the slack side

Next up is to square up your paper by measuring in from the edge to plot X

1 from X = 8 inches down from hip level.

Square out from 1 to 2.

2 from 1= the half-hip measure plus 1/2 inch

3 from 1 half the distance from 1 to 2 less 1 inch

4 from 2 = 1 inch. Join 3 to 4 and square up from 4 to 5 the same distance as 1 is from X

7 from 5 = one-third of the distance from 6 to X

7 from 4 = 8 inches. Line from 7 to 4

Measure down the front skirt length from X to 8 plus 1/4 inch

Join X to 7 to locate point 9

9 form X = half the distance from X to 7 less 1 inch from X

10 from 9 = one-third of the distance from 6 to X

shape the waist level at the top

from X to 10 and 7 as shown

Line down from 10 to 11 through 3 the side skirt length plus 1/4 inch.

12 from 7 = the

back skirt length plus 1/4 inch

Shape the bottom edge run from 8 to 11 and 12

Measure from 7 to 13 half the waist size plus 1/2 inch

14 from 13 = one-third of the distance from 13 to X

15 from 14 = two-thirds of the distance from 14 to X plus 1/2 inch

Suppress the side-seams from 10 to 16 and 17 by the quantity shown from 13 to 14

Shape from 16 and 17 to 3 in a gradual run

18 from 14 = one sixth of the half-hip measure for the position of the first back dart

Square down from the waist line to 18 from 19

20 and 21 from 19 = half the quantity shown from 14 to 15

Shape out the back dart from 20 and 21 to 18, making the dart 7 inches in length

22 from 18 = one sixth of the half-hip measure

Square down from the waist-line at 23 to 22

24 and 25 from 23 = half the quantity shown from 14 to 15

Shape out the back dart from 24 and 25 to 22, making the dart 7 inches in length

26 from 3 = one sixth of the scale

Square down from the waist line to 26 and supress the front dart by the quantity shown from 15 to X at 27 and 28

Shape out the dart from 27 and 28 to within 2 inches of 26

to complete the standard draft for skirts

Apr 27

…creativity, where are you?….

For those times when creativity is nowhere to be found, check out this little video- 29 ways to stay creative – to help get the juices flowing again and get you out of the Flumps (they were often under a cloud); because lets face it we are not our true selves when we are not engaged in some aspect of the creative process.

Enjoy

Apr 25

Sewcialist Emblem Competition – I’m in….OMG!

SONY DSC original sewcialist drawing

Hi just a quick post to let you know that my design was shortlisted for the Sewcialist Emblem Competition! I am cock -a-hoop! Thank you to all who have voted for me so far #6. I am in esteemed company indeed as all the designs are great and much thought has gone into each one. The competition is open until May 8th – so if you have not done so already, get yourself over to the Jury blogs and cast your vote!

Apr 24

Butterick B5846 – a dress for all seasons.

Bit of an impromptu hiatus from Blogland as I was off visiting my Mum in Ireland, and dodgy internet connection making blogging all but impossible. However that said, I have been busy sewing bee and set myself the task of making some Summery items even though the mercury for the best part of my break had stubbornly refused to rise!! I’ve taken to wearing flowers in the absence of any in the garden.

I choose this great Butterick pattern, which I had in my stash for a while - as the perfect fabric eluded me, that is until a terrific little shop opened locally with the most wonderful range of dressmaking fabrics run by the wonderful Samina whose knowledge of fabrics is encyclopedic!

The fabric chosen for what turned out to be the first of two dresses – Oh! yes – cannot stop myself!, is a wonderful rayon challis in a riot of flowers which reminds me of the design of a dress my grandmother wore.

The pattern is very easy and came together easily – I did not make a toile as the fabric wasn’t too expensive so I considered it a wearable muslin – the finished dress fitted perfectly but for the wide shoulders. The instructions do not ask for shoulder pads but being a reproduction of a 1940′s design they would have likely been in the original, the pattern does not appear to have been modified for today’s less structured taste. I therefore inserted not only shoulder pads but gathered shoulder heads in an attempt to “pouff” the sleeves. With I think you will agree limited success, this due to the inherent weight of the fabric – lesson learnt.

As I loved the design of the dress I set out to make another and found a wonderful lightweight rayon. I love the black background on the ditzy flowers as it can be worn with tights and boots after all Spring not Springing!

With the issues fresh in my mind I did a shoulder adjustment to reduce the size and need then for shoulder pads.

tape showing the decreased adjustment lines at armhole edge

With this lightweight fabric I decided a bit of support would be needed in the waist area as I could envisage pulling and creasing with the strain. I therefore drafted additional pattern pieces of the waist area, doubled over and stitched at the pleated waist area as reinforcement.

There are so many aspects of this pattern that I like however the flippy skirt with the pockets is a particular favourite. I therefore decided to make a skirt from the lower half of the dress pattern with the easy addition of a waistband. Again a vintagesque rayon was called for and I love this design but I would be reluctant to wear from head to toe as a bit too zingy.

This dress pattern is great! – with the added value of an additional skirt and possibly a blouse.

Tulle and Tweed

Aficionado of fashion and all things stitchery