Burdastyle Vintage shift # 134 5/2013

I was leafing through the Burdasytle May edition feeling a little bit uninspired when I came across this little beauty. Its taken from a 1960′s Vintage Pattern and it was love at first sight

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Apart from the great design, I especially liked the fabric choice in this – which is a beautiful bright geometric type print in silk and the colour-way is my absolute favourite,  riot of blues.

It is not evident from the picture above, that the dress is fitted at the bust and slim through the waist panelling and darts, skimming the hips – Yay! and a little bow detail, gives I think a quintessentially 60′s vibe. The line drawing gives a more accurate representation of where the fit is on this.

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I decided that I would like this to be lined, I found a lovely lightweight lawnish type cotton and decided that I would use initially as a muslin/toile to perfect the fit. The neckline was a bit low for me showing wayyy to much cleavage so I did a shoulder adjustment, which seemed to do the trick. I am rather short in the body so there was no real need to alter anything else.

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I managed to source a similar fabric to the one featured as this was what had first drew me to this pattern and I was delighted to find a medium weight glazed poplin which fit the bill perfectly.

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I adjusted the pattern cut the fabric made up the dress inserted the zip and put on my dress form (inside out) and then put on the muslin/toile/lining, wrong sides to gether and tacked on. I left off the sleeve facings as I wanted to have the lining in place before I attahced those; thus helping to anchor the lining. I did not put on the bow and tape detail as it is lost in the print, also I will wear this casually with a little cardi and I think the bow is a bit fussy in that instance.

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This was such an easy dress to put together – even with the lining which I would always recommend especially on something so fitted as it feels substantial on the waist – no stretching or bulging. I have to say the style is one of the most flattering I have ever worn; I love it…..and before you ask Yes! I will use this pattern again, next time I will do in a plain medium weight shot silk fabric with perhaps a matching evening coat and I would then go for the bow detail and perhaps carry it through to the coat. Ahhh! I just have to find somewhere to go with it!!

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46 thoughts on “Burdastyle Vintage shift # 134 5/2013

  1. I don’t have anyone to help me fit stuff – do you find that you use your dress form often? I guess it wouldn’t help too much with pants, but it would for everything else. I have been trying to decide if I should look into getting one. What do you like and dislike about yours?

    • For a long time I didn’t use a dress form and I managed but I have to say using one (make sure you can adjust for your measurements) makes a big difference. Pinning on facings, looking at the accuracy of darts i.e both the same length, hems. I find it now invaluable. There isn’t much I don’t like about it apart from the fact that it is only ever an estimation of your figure (I have my bra – padded out on it, covered with a slip). I always try garments on myself and fit from that. My Dolly is my silent assistant! Hope that helps – loads of forums on the net about dress-forms so best to do your homework as they can be pricey.

    • Thank you, I really was on a mission to find something similar but was expecting it to take a while, just stumbled upon this, don’t you love it when a plan comes together! :)

  2. Ooo good work on finding a fabric so similar to the one that inspired you to make this dress. I really like that you missed out the fussy bow bit – it’s much more chic this way.

    • Thank you, I know I thought initially it would have to be a silk like the one featured and worried it would not be substantial enough. The weight of the poplin with the cotton lining is great as it means everything stays where it should! :) Yeah the bow seemed more trouble than it was worth tbh.

  3. I think this is just beautiful. I like the coat and dress idea too, would look fabulous! Reminds me of the beautiful clothes in ‘ Pan Am’ the tv series! As for the dress form…. I have just got one after giving up on sewing because nothing ever fitted properly and looked ‘wonky’! Since i got it I am a busy bee sewing all the time! Hopefully improving as I go. The only thing is… I am still on the ‘concealed zip ‘ and we seem to have moved to invisible ones… Any tutorials you could recommend on how to do it? I am also sewing with chiffon….. It is so difficult…..any tips? Especially with the cutting out!?
    Thanks!

    • Thank you for the lovely comment. Yes now when I come to think of it, it is very Pan Am.

      The dress form is one of those things once you have it you wondered how you managed without!

      There are loads of tutorials on the web for concealed /invisible zips, one of the best is here http://vimeo.com/47057975 at Colette patterns, their blog has loads of very useful tutorials.

      Sewing with chiffon is not too bad as it’s not as slippery as other silk finishes. When cutting out silk I cover my cutting table with an old linen tablecloth, the rough texture holds the fabric in place better and you can pin the pattern pieces to the fabric and tablecloth – use small scissors to cut between the pins. I would also recommend cutting out on a single layer rather than folding over as the fabric can move against itself. That may involve mirroring your pattern pieces with brown paper , – rather than cutting on the fold. Hope that helps. Happy Sewing

      • Thanks. Yes, the table was the problem actually! I have some new chiffon to try so will use your tips!
        Everything you have made on your blog I would wear any day! They are fabulous. I have an idea in my head how I want things to look and they never quite end up that way!! Yours look like they end up exactly as planned!
        Thanks.

  4. Oh my goodness, look at you, this is just fantastic! I have this issue also and did not fall in love with too much, but really liked this dress! The smallest size would be too big, so I did not bother, but delighted to see it sewn up so well.

    • Oh that’s a pity re the size, would you not consider trying to reduce the size, I’m sure its well within the capabilities of a gal like you! and you could always blog it. I think this would look great on you! – no pressure :)

  5. This is absolutely gorgeous! I gave up on burdastyle for a while because I couldn’t find anything I liked enough to justify all the effort tracing the patterns, but I would totally make the effort for a dress like this. Love it!

  6. Wow!! I actually did a click-version of a double-take, going back up to the original and down again to your version checking I wasn’t imagining things :-) It’s a brilliant likeness. And the fit is just perfection. Not many projects make that claim!

  7. Marianna thank you, When I saw this, I pushed all else aside to do it and its not often I want to copy something exactly, as, like you, I usually like to flex my creative muscle, but sometimes you can’t improve on perfection. :)

  8. Amazing! You look stunning and that print is so pretty. What a great find! I can’t wait to see the evening wear version! Which jacket pattern are you thinking about using?

  9. Soon Pippa Middleton will be asking you to whip up some beauties for her to wear! WOW what a dress and of course, it helps to have a killer figure!!!

    • Oh please do, one of the reasons I started blogging my makes was in the hope that I would inspire, especially young people and none of what I do is particularly complex. I’ve checked out your blog and I love what you do with your unique whimsical style. Thanks

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