Finally I have gotten round to posting the finished winter Burdastyle coats previously posted on Happy New Coat! I have been waiting for decent weather for some outside shots.
I have to say the most difficult thing about this exercise was tracing the pattern out of the hell that is the Burdastyle nested patterns!! I find the best way to tackle this is to lay brown kraft paper down over a double layered tablecloth – pattern on top and trace with a tracing wheel, mark up with your french curve and add seam allowance. I suspect there is a number of ways to copy but my eyesight wouldn’t counter having to peer through tracing paper to follow a mass of coloured lines!!
interlining in front pieces.
That said, I am really pleased with the results, first up is the camel coat which is made from a pure new wool medium to heavy weight coating with a check reverse. I did not use the check in any part of the body as I felt it is of a utilitarian nature and I was looking for a more elegant take so I made the belt which can be worn plain or check side uppermost, by way of a detail. From the toile I knew I needed to extend the shoulder line and I wanted to insert shoulder pads to take it out of casual wear to imbue a kind of elegance. I then added a sleeve head which I think gives a nice rounded moulded appearance to the shoulder line.
shoulder pads
sleeve head
intelining
The front only on the camel coat is interlined, see above. I used a fine hair canvas on both coats, adding just the right amount of weight which also serves to anchor the front facings. The lining is a luxury viscose and well worth the additional expense of ordinary lining as it is a wonderful silky feel, yet once on warm and the flash of colour is a joy. Perhaps my most favourite thing about this coat is the lovely deep pockets, wonderfully roomy and positioned just right. The camel coat I see more as an everyday coat, bit on the smart side, dress up for work and down with jeans on the weekend.
Second up is the navy blue light wool coating which I fully interlined to add weight and shape. I cut this one slightly longer as I wanted this as a more of an evening coat. I first intended to have a fastner at the bust but felt it gave a more straight silhouette so I decided to forego that idea and added a belt, albeit a wider one than on the previous camel coat. I would have liked the wide soft belt seen on the catwalk but unfortunately I had run out of fabric! Either way I am happy with the outcome.
As a final flourish I will be making a removable luxury faux fur collar for both coats, a pale faux fur for the camel and the darker one from my stash for the navy, both are wonderfully soft and I think will give the coats a whole new look .
Wonderful job on the coats! Love the fur collar idea, too – what fun that will be! I think you did a great job! Thanks for sharing your hard work
Thank you, Its probably one of the easier projects I’ve taken on. I think everyone should have a go, not having a collar to contend with simplifies the whole process!
Wow, I love these coats! Great job. Love the check reverse side on your camel coat and how you made the belt reversible. On my camel / leopard print reverse coat, I put the leopard print on the ends, but I like the reversible idea too.
Thank you, yes I loved your mix of camel and leopard (the rare leomel) the check size just didn’t appeal over a larger area. I’m quite small so I have be aware of scale. As with your mathematical leanings you’ll appreciate!
Oh yes. Always.
And checks are so perfectly geometric. Beautiful!
The check fabric ‘hints’ on the camel coat are very chic. The collarless style looks great on its own but, as with your faux fur collar, you can really change the look with various neck attire. Really like both coats!
Thanks Cherry, I am loving the collarless coat/jacket look, tons on the high street (also so easy from a sewing point of view!) but cannot resist a bit of faux fur at the neck!
These are just gorgeous! I love the simple and elegant lines of these coats. And you’re right: why have one when you can have two fabulous coats!
Tia Dia, Having to look at my penchant for multiples of things. I think part of it is – being unable to chose between great fabrics but the other is wanting to perfect a technique. In this case it was the shoulder pads, sleeveheads and interlining none of which I had done before. I’m going to have to bite the bullet and tackle a revere collar, on my to do list for this year! Thanks for your kind words.
Oh yes please, more coats and jackets for us yellow-belllies who have yet to tackle a tailored project like that.
The camel coat is the epitome of classic luxury, isn’t it? Great that the sun came out, for once!
I like the sound of viscose lining; I’m not a fan of the cheap stuff as I tend to snag it sooner or later.
Hey Marianna, I have seen your sewing skills and trust me there is nothing here that you could not easily tackle. I have had a hankering for a camel coat for some time but ones on the high street are a bit of a let down not to mention very pricey. Viscose lining is by far the best – took me years to discover this, particularly for garments worn on the upper body as it is breathable, colour saturation, lustre and weight is wonderful. can’t go back now!
So gorgeous. Your tailoring skills are an inspiration!
Thank you, decided to brush up on the tailoring skills this year!
These are ABSOLUTELY fabulous…I love seeing them in both colours!!!
many thanks
These are both great coats. And I’d want both myself too. They both work really well and fit you to a T.
Thank you – I really recommend this pattern so easy and It could be done in a fancy brocade for a special occasion outfit
These are absolutely just gorgeous – I love the simplicity of the style because it really shows off the stunning tailoring and fine detail – just brilliant
For that reason, I like that you are making the fur collars detachable; I kind of prefer the simplicity of the coats without embellishment
Thank you, yes the simplicity of the design really grabbed me and I wanted to show off the luxury nature of the coating fabric – always best done simply and without embelishment I find. I’m moving away from the idea of a collar to a type of fur snood idea, I will do a quick post when done, thanks again for the lovely comment