Finally I have gotten round to posting the finished winter Burdastyle coats previously posted on Happy New Coat! I have been waiting for decent weather for some outside shots.
I have to say the most difficult thing about this exercise was tracing the pattern out of the hell that is the Burdastyle nested patterns!! I find the best way to tackle this is to lay brown kraft paper down over a double layered tablecloth – pattern on top and trace with a tracing wheel, mark up with your french curve and add seam allowance. I suspect there is a number of ways to copy but my eyesight wouldn’t counter having to peer through tracing paper to follow a mass of coloured lines!!
That said, I am really pleased with the results, first up is the camel coat which is made from a pure new wool medium to heavy weight coating with a check reverse. I did not use the check in any part of the body as I felt it is of a utilitarian nature and I was looking for a more elegant take so I made the belt which can be worn plain or check side uppermost, by way of a detail. From the toile I knew I needed to extend the shoulder line and I wanted to insert shoulder pads to take it out of casual wear to imbue a kind of elegance. I then added a sleeve head which I think gives a nice rounded moulded appearance to the shoulder line.
The front only on the camel coat is interlined, see above. I used a fine hair canvas on both coats, adding just the right amount of weight which also serves to anchor the front facings. The lining is a luxury viscose and well worth the additional expense of ordinary lining as it is a wonderful silky feel, yet once on warm and the flash of colour is a joy. Perhaps my most favourite thing about this coat is the lovely deep pockets, wonderfully roomy and positioned just right. The camel coat I see more as an everyday coat, bit on the smart side, dress up for work and down with jeans on the weekend.
Second up is the navy blue light wool coating which I fully interlined to add weight and shape. I cut this one slightly longer as I wanted this as a more of an evening coat. I first intended to have a fastner at the bust but felt it gave a more straight silhouette so I decided to forego that idea and added a belt, albeit a wider one than on the previous camel coat. I would have liked the wide soft belt seen on the catwalk but unfortunately I had run out of fabric! Either way I am happy with the outcome.
As a final flourish I will be making a removable luxury faux fur collar for both coats, a pale faux fur for the camel and the darker one from my stash for the navy, both are wonderfully soft and I think will give the coats a whole new look .